Oh Tannenbaum: A story of Germany and Christmas

Merry Christmas to one and all! Here is my Christmas gift to you…. a little something that I wrote several years back for a magazine in Munich. Figured I’d allow all that research to breathe again, so I freshened it up a tad and wrapped it up on my iPad in hopes of sharing all the great things I learned about so many of our Christmas traditions, and it all begins in Germany…. where else?! 

Of all the times of year to be in Germany, the Weihnachtszeit, or Christmas season, is my absolute favorite. The innate beauty, endearing charm, and colorful traditions that I found in Bavaria added to the distinct magic of the season….it was sort of like living in a Christmas card. Let me explain –

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The Zwetchgenmaendl (Bavarian), or Zwetschgenmaenner

Spanning from the first Sunday of Advent to Epiphany on January 6, Weihnachten is a time when Germany – and Bavaria in particular – displays a delightful and fascinating collection of secular and solemn contributions to this much-loved holiday. From Saint Nikolaus to the amusing Zwetschgenmandl (plum man) – a folk talisman of good luck – Christmas is a mix of religious devotion, folk heritage, pagan custom and Bavarian whimsy. In the Christian ecclesiastical calendar, Advent is the period before Christmas which spans four Sundays, beginning with the one closest to the feast of Saint Andrew (November 30) and ending on Christmas Eve — Heiligabend. The first Sunday of Advent is significant not only because it’s the official start of the Christmas season, but also because it marks the beginning of a new church year. And, according to tradition, it’s on this Sunday that the first candle of the Adventskranz, or Advent wreath, is lit.

Tracing its origins back to the mid-19th century, the Advent wreath is considered a relatively new holiday practice. An evangelical theologian in northern Germany is credited with the original idea — a wooden wheel, which held 24 candles, one for each of the 24 December days before Christmas. In the ensuing years, as the custom developed and grew in popularity, the wooden wheel was replaced by a wreath of evergreen branches, and the number of candles was reduced to four. By 1925, even the Catholic Church in Cologne publicly displayed the wreath. And by 1930, the custom had reached Munich, too.

Another Protestant and Catholic ritual is the December 4th commemoration of Saint Barbara. On this day, a branch is customarily cut from a tree – such as apple, hazelnut, cherry, plum or forsythia – and brought inside the house, where it’s placed in a vase. If the branch — called the Barbarazweig — blooms by Christmas, it is considered an auspicious sign for the future and the coming year. In some parts of Germany, the feast of Saint Barbara is also the day on which Kletzenbrot, a traditional fruit bread, is baked.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMany will agree that the most spirited and visible sign of Germany’s Advent season is the Christkindlmarkt, also known variously as the Christkindlesmarkt, Weihnachtsmarkt or Nikolausmarkt. One of the oldest, and certainly the most famous, is Nuremberg’s Christmas market, which can be traced back to the mid-16th century. These immensely popular outdoor fairs, featuring rows of festively decorated wooden stalls, offer everything from holiday decorations, wooden toys and candles, to arts and crafts and warm, woolen socks. Filling the crisp Winter air with the wonderful aromas of grilled sausages, roasted chestnuts, gebrannte Mandeln (sugar-roasted almonds), Gluehwein (mulled wine), and Lebkuchen (gingerbread), no Christmas in Germany seems complete without a visit to one of these magical places.

A beloved pastime of young and old alike is yet another tradition with decidedly German origins, the Adventskalendar (Advent calendar), which appeared for the first time in the 19th century in one primitive form or another. The first printed version was produced in Germany in 1908. It was based on the childhood experiences of Swabian-born Gerhard Lang, whose mother made him cardboard Advent calendars to which 24 Wibile, or small candies, were attached.

Screen shot 2015-01-04 at 4.08.04 PMAn eagerly anticipated day on the calendar in Bavaria is always December 6 — the feast of Saint Nicholas, the fourth-century bishop of Myra and patron saint of children. On this day, or more often the evening before, the bearded saint visits youngsters, presenting them with gifts from his sack, such as nuts, apples, clementine oranges, Lebkuchen, Kletzenbrot, and chocolate. More fascinating, perhaps, than the Christian symbolism associated with Nicholas, though, are the pagan roots of his scary-looking Bavarian companions.

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Thomas Nast Illustration

Depending on the region, they are referred to by any one of a number of names, including Krampus, Knecht Ruprecht, Buttmandl, Klaubauf, Buttz, Pelzmaertel, Gangerl and Rumpelblas. These shadowy, sinister creatures with ghastly faces are typically covered in tattered garments, fur or straw, and known for their boisterous bells, Ruten (switches), loudchains or terrifying screams. In pre-Christian times, the foreboding characters were intended to scare away Winter’s demons on long, cold, dreadful nights. But today, Nicholas’ escorts often perform the additional task of scaring misbehaved children…. (I’ve heard that some even have burlap sacks to carry off any children who’ve been bad!)

Interestingly, Thomas Nast, the U.S. illustrator and cartoonist credited as the first to sketch America’s image of Saint Nicholas as a fat and jolly “Santa Claus” (Weihnachtsmann), was born in Landau, Bavaria, in 1840. It is said that his childhood memories of the Pelznickel contributed to his now-famous depiction.

Who then, one might ask, is the bearer of gifts to Bavarian children on Christmas Eve, if not Nicholas? Why the Christkindl, of course! Literally translated, the name means “Christ Child.” But the mysterious, captivating figure is usually female and dressed like a so-called Rauschgoldengel (gold foil angel), with curly, glowing hair, flowing robes and wings. Any youngster will tell you the Christkindl not only brings the presents on Heiligabend (December 24), when gifts are traditionally exchanged in Bavaria, but the Christmas tree and decorations too! At least one reference attributes the nickname of Nicholas – “Kris Kringle” – to an altered or misunderstood adaptation of “Christkindl.”

Bavaria’s age-old love for the Krippe, or creche (crib), is well known; the large annual Krippenmarkt (nativity scene market) in Munich during Advent attests to this. In fact, the city’s Bavarian National Museum is home to one of the most extraordinary and extensive collections of Krippen in the world. History credits Italian Jesuit Saint Francis of Assisi with assembling the first re-creation of a nativity scene in 1223, and the Jesuits brought this custom north of the Alps. But the talented artisans and woodworkers of southern Bavaria, especially Oberammergau, are said to have helped the custom propagate throughout the rest of the world.

Note the two miners in this classic Schwibbogen design

Two miners are featured in this classic Schwibbogen design

Craftsmen from Germany’s Erzgebirge (Iron Ore Mountains), in the state of Saxony, just north of Bavaria, have also made significant contributions to our Christmas holiday. The region, after all, is where the Nussknacker (nutcracker) first took its familiar grim-grinning form! Here the brightly lit and bowed Schwibbogen (flying buttress), displayed in windows at Christmas, is a local tradition dating from 1778. The intriguing artwork with its intricate interior designs, owes its name and shape to the architectural form of the entrance to the mountains’ mines, or tunnels (Stollen in German). It is worth noting that the similarly shaped, yet edible Christstollen (Christmas stollen) originated in Dresden about 1450.

The familiar Weihnachtspyramide (Christmas pyramid), meanwhile, also comes from the Erzgebirge. Made from rough sticks and branches in earlier times, the pyramid is believed to be the predecessor of the Tannenbaum, or Christmas tree. Long a pagan symbol of life and fertility to the Germanic and Celtic peoples, beliefs about the evergreen are firmly rooted in German soil and legends about the tree as a Christmas symbol abound. One such story tells of Martin Luther, the 16th-century leader of the Protestant Reformation, being among the first to use a candle-lit evergreen as a decoration at Christmas. The festive trees, of course, were eventually trimmed with such things as apples, paper roses, nuts and wafers. And thanks to glass-blowers of Thuringia, Christbaumkugeln, or glass ornaments, were introduced in the mid-19th century.  In 1841, the Christmas tree tradition spread beyond continental Europe to Great Britain. German Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s consort, wanted his children to experience the Christmas tradition of his childhood. From Britain, the rest of the world was not far behind.

In German-speaking countries, the Christmas tree was part of a tradition called Rauhnaechte (harsh, or wild, nights) — known also as Eisnaechte (ice nights), Rauchnaechte (smoke nights), Zwischennaechte (between nights) and Zwoelfnaechte — in other words, the “Twelve Days of Christmas.” These are, quite simply, the 12 days between the end of Advent and Epiphany. According to custom still practiced in many German households, the tree is put up on December 24 and taken down around January 6 — Epiphany — which is known as the “Twelfth Night.” Age-old beliefs hold that during these 12 days, horrendous demons, witches, and mischievous spirits roam freely on earth to harrass the living. And loud noises, it would seem, are a successful means to drive the fiends away. So, as is still practiced in some areas, such as Berchtesgaden, whips are repeatedly cracked, bells are rung and gunpowder Boeller (muskets or canon) are shot with deafening repetition. Leaving nothing to chance, houses, stables and stalls are also blessed with holy water and fumigated with smoldering branches of juniper and other herbs.

A medieval legend that bones of the Three Wise Men are housed in a golden shrine at the cathedral in Cologne has, at least partly, contributed to the centuries’ old tradition of celebrating Epiphany — Heilige Drei Koenige. Children, dressed as the biblical Three Wise Men and carrying a Star of Bethlehem, go from house to house, singing traditional songs and collecting offerings for the poor. According to custom, they write “C + M + B” along with the year, above the door of each house. The meaning of the intials is two-fold: first, as the initials of the Three Wise Men — Caspar, Melchior and Balthasar; and second, representing the Latin phrase “Christus Mansionem Benedicat,” which asks God to bless the dwelling.

Without the influence of many of the customs that come from Germany, our own festivities would seem rather lackluster today. So, as we deck the halls with our own special traditions during Christmas, it’s worth remembering the abundant and colorful contributions made by this seemingly storybook land. 20111225-171627.jpg

Ornamental Delights

Christmas is a time for giving…. so, I’ve dusted the cobwebs off another item from my writing basement – again, something that I wrote when I was in Germany…

German Christmas Ornaments

They sparkle, they glitter…they come in all shapes, sizes and colors.  And for most people, they’re what makes every Christmas tree unique:  glass ornaments.

Since ancient times, people have brought evergreen branches and trees into their homes in the middle of the cold, dark winter as a symbol of everlasting life and health, and as a talisman to ward off tragedy and evil.

The custom of decorating these greens, using apples, nuts, cubes of sugar, cookies, wafers, and other home-made treats started in the late 16th century — about the same time that glass blowers in the quaint German town of Lauscha, in Thuringia, were making a name for themselves as exquisite and superb craftsmen.

As the story is told, the very first glass ornaments were created in the mid-1800s by a Lauscha glass blower who was too poor to decorate his Christmas tree with real fruit and nuts.  So, he created fruit and nuts — out of glass!

The key to this development was the invention of the internal silvering process, which enabled glass blowers to create a shiny, almost mirror-like surface inside the blown-glass shape by using a non-toxic silver saline solution.  It’s a process that is still used today. The outside of the ornament was then painted in various colors and decorated with materials like metal foil, wax, or paper.

Around 1880, something else happened that would change the future of these exquisite glass creations — forever.  An American merchant by the name of F.W. Woolworth spotted these marvelous glass creations in Germany.  He took such a fancy to them that he took some back to the United States to sell to his customers in Pennsylvania.  The glass ornaments — in the shapes of stars, angels, trumpets, Nikolaus, and other shimmering forms — were a big hit.  And by the turn of the century, Woolworth was importing 200,000 of them to sell at his five-and-dime stores.

Ornaments displayed in a storefront in Lauscha Photo/Kathleen Saal

In the years that followed, Lauscha’s world-wide popularity and reputation in the Christmas ornament market continued to grow.

Although much of the ornament production was automated during Lauscha’s days under East German rule, today glass blowers at privately owned companies are again making ornaments according to the traditional and time-honored method —- by hand.  Of the estimated five million glass ornaments made in Lauscha each year, roughly 60 percent of them are for export.  One of the town’s biggest customers?  The United States — over a century after Mr. Woolworth first visited the town.

Many of the wooden molds used to create the very early ornament shapes, are used now to inspire newer – yet still nostalgic – shapes and motifs.  If you counted all the various ornament shapes and designs existing today, you’d find about 10,000 — in every shape, size and color imaginable.  Some of them cost as much as $100 each.  They range from the traditional and ever-popular round ornament to those that look like icicles or birds, stars, churches, teddy bears, and Nikolaus, Santa Claus or Father Christmas.  More unique, but less traditional, are ornaments shaped like Bugs Bunny and Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, which can be found on contemporary Christmas trees in the U.S.

For something truly different, there are even ornaments shaped to look like watermelons, pumpkins and – yes – garlic bulbs and plain brown potatoes.  With a bit of luck, you can even find glass ornaments shaped like those fruits and nuts of yore.

A Hard Nut to Crack: The origins of a much-loved wooden Christmas figure

I’ve dusted off a story that I wrote at Christmas for Munich Found Magazine back in the late 1990s. Rather than do a simple paste up job here, I’ve polished it up a bit and added some tinsel and holly for a proper Christmas in 2011 (Ha!) – Froehe Weihnachten!  Merry Christmas!

Collected and adored around the world, the German nutcracker has been a beloved part of Christmas traditions for more than 100 years.  But cracking nuts has been a dilemma a lot longer than that.   How long you ask? Well, how about since the beginning of time!  Earlier versions, including simple stones and wooden hammers, have been used for more than 2,000 years.  The oldest known metal nutcracker, which is on display in Italy, dates back to the third or fourth century B.C.  Yet still, it is the younger, animated wooden figure of German folk culture which has influenced what we know and love today.

Originally designed as a rather simple-looking wooden gadget, the nutcracker has always had a very practical purpose:  to crack the hard shells of nuts.  The device itself, though, was considered somewhat frivolous …especially when strong hands and teeth could accomplish the same exact task…for free!  (Teeth… yes, you just read that.  Now think walnuts and teeth… yikes!)

In the early 18th century, wood craftsmen in Germany’s Thuringia and Erzgebirge regions had an idea — to create a nutcracker that looked like a toy and would appeal to children.  After whittling boughs of beech and pine, they adorned the wooden pieces with various materials, such as wool, leather or fur.  The resulting figure had a big head and a strong form, with a lever on the back to open and close the nutcracker’s mouth. When a nut was placed in the open mouth, it would look like the teeth of the nutcracker were cracking the shell — a none too subtle encouragement for people to use the nutcracker to open nuts…. instead of their own teeth.

The German word “Nussknacker” is said to have appeared in the dictionary of the legendary Brothers Grim.  It was defined as “often in the form of a misshaped little man, in whose mouth the nut, by means of a lever or screw, is cracked open”.

But the nutcracker, even with its toy-like design, still hadn’t reached its must-have celebrity status.  That didn’t come until about 1816, when German writer E.T.A. Hoffmann published his popular children’s fairy tale, The Nutcracker and the Mouse King.  Nearly 80 years after that, Russian composer Peter Tchaikovsky put a nutcracker in the title role of his ballet, “The Nutcracker Suite.” The rest, as they say, is history, because nutcrackers have played a role in our Christmas traditions ever since.

The “Grimmigens” – traditional German nutcrackers stand watch at a Christkindlmarkt in Bavaria

An estimated 80 percent of all the nutcrackers made in Germany seem to find their way across the Atlantic into the homes of American collectors.  Always dressed to reflect the tastes and times in which they’re created, popular designs include fairy tale characters and animals, dwarfs, the seasonal Nikolaus or Santa Claus, cowboys, indians, sport figures, models of everyday people like fishermen, dentists, mountain climbers, mushroom collectors or pottery makers… there’s even U.S. Civil War soldiers and a nutcracker dressed like Abraham Lincoln!

Over the years, there is one thing that hasn’t changed: nutcrackers have never lost their mean grins and gruff-looking faces…or their lesser-known secondary role as a popular means of social criticism. The most traditional and still popular figures of kings, soldiers, knights, foresters, gendarmes -and even Napolean Bonaparte- first appeared in the 19th century. These designs were originally a reflection of hidden resentment, representing the ultimate revenge of the wooden toy makers, and the poorer class. In every day life the common people had to work for and answer to these privileged rulers. But once they got home, they could switch roles and make the nobility and military work for them…by making them perform a menial, tooth-breaking task — cracking nuts.

Oktoberfest by the Numbers

Got another Oktoberfest-related piece published on CNN’s food blog this week (Oct 10, 2011)!  I think everyone will enjoy this one.. after all, what’s not to like about Oktoberfest?!  I certainly had fun writing it!  Full post can be seen here on the web: http://eatocracy.cnn.com/2011/10/10/oktoberfest-by-the-numbers/ – Let me know what you think!

For German Bier, it’s all in the glass

Here is a blog item that I finished writing last Thursday night for CNN’s food blog “Eatocracy” – it was published last Friday. We still have a few more days of Oktoberfest (runs through Oct. 3 in Munich) so enjoy! But then, you don’t need Oktoberfest to enjoy a good German Bier… Prost! (click here to read the full article on CNN.com/eatocracy)  I should add that I have DOZENS of proper German Bier glasses (mugs, steins, Weissbier glasses) at my house…

Here is my story on CNN.com